Adolfo's Knits

Last week, we looked at the hats and early clothing of Adolfo Sardina.  Today will be the end of my series on this talented designer.  In the very early 70s, when knits started to become very popular, Adolfo took the trend and elevated it to a higher style for his exclusive clientele.  "A dress has to be more than a long sweater," he said in 1972.  The results were nothing less than spectacular classics that still look decidedly modern 40 years later.

70s evening gown with sequins, sold by Couture Allure
The designer used only a very high quality knits made of silk and wool that were specially constructed not to cling, sag or lose their shape. There were often patterns knitted into the fabric, such as lacy pointelles or geometric designs.

1974 knit maxi dress from the collection of the Met Museum
Adolfo insisted that his clients wear a body stocking or panty girdle and bra under his knit dresses.  He even designed his own special girdle made of English elasticized fabric that he sold with the dresses.  And he always advised his customers to buy one size up whe0 wearing a knit. "Knits cling...An extra size is a wonderful disguise."

1976, in the collection of the Met Museum
By 1973, Adolfo began to present what would become his signature look, the knit suit styled after those of Chanel.  For his suits, he used the same knits as his dresses as well as thicker boucle knits in tweedy yarns that mimicked the wools used by Chanel. 

1977, from the collection of the Met Museum
He trimmed his suit jackets with braids, buttons and pocket flaps, just as Chanel did.  Sometimes the jackets were edged with crocheted yarn in a contrasting color.  He sold the suits with co-ordinating silk blouses that tied with a bow at the neck.

1979, suit trimmed with gold sequins
While his knits became very popular, he continued to design printed silk daytime dresses and evening wear for his steady stream of custom clients in his 57th Street Salon.  In the late 60s and 70s, he also had  wholesale arrangements with a few high end department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue, I. Magnin and Neiman Marcus.

In 1976, Adolfo began designing a menswear line.  During the 70s and 80s he licensed his name to countless products, including perfume, furs, handbags, hats and sportswear.  In 1993, Adolfo announced the closing of his custom salon, much to the chagrin of his loyal clients who had been purchasing his clothing since the 1960s.  After closing his salon, he concentrated on marketing his licensed lines and made appearances at department stores and on QVC.  He continues working with his licensees to this day.

Giveaway Winner and My Favorite Oscar Dress

The winner of yesterday's giveaway of the book, "Unforgettable: Fashions of the Oscars" is Sharon!  Thank you to everyone who entered and congratulations to Sharon!  I'll be in touch via email this morning to arrange for shipping.

My favorite red carpet dress for the Academy Awards of 2013 was the futuristic silver sequined gown by Armani Prive that Naomi Watts wore.  I love the cut.  I love the sparkle, I love the fact that this was different from every other gown on the red carpet.  The gown fits her perfectly and she looks fabulous!

How about you?  Which was your favorite?

Giveaway! Unforgettable: Fashions of the Oscars

THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED.  THANKS FOR STOPPING BY!

I found one more book to giveaway from my library!  And since the Academy Awards were last night, I thought the timing of this one appropriate.  I am downsizing my bookshelves and you get to benefit!

Today's giveaway is for the auction catalog for the Christie's "Unforgettable: Fashion of the Oscars" auction that was held to benefit AmfAR in 1999.  There were 54 lots in this auction, all famous dresses donated by Hollywood movie stars and celebrities for this auction.  All of the dresses were worn to the Academy Awards and include dresses from the 1950s to the 1990s. 

This silver beaded dress by Edith Head was worn by Janet Leigh in 1959.  Each double page spread includes a full page color photo of the dress and a full description of the designer and the garment itself, as well as the year it was worn.

This is a soft cover book, 165 pages and is in excellent condition.  I know you'll enjoy it and good luck!

This giveaway will run for 24 hours only and the winner will be chosen at 7am Eastern Tuesday, February 26, 2013.  I'm not going to make you jump through hoops either.  Simply leave a comment here on the blog.  If you don't have a blogger profile, please leave your email address in your comment.  I'll choose the winner via the random number generator tomorrow morning and will contact the winner via email for shipping information.  And stay tuned for another giveaway every day this week!

Important!  If you live in the US, I will ship this book to you via Media Mail at no cost.  Unfortunately, due to the recent postal rate increases, if you live outside of the US, I must ask that you pay for the shipping, which could run anywhere from $16.00 - $23.00 depending upon where you live.  If you live outside the US and are not willing to pay the shipping, please do not enter this giveaway!

Weekend Eye Candy - Ben Reig and Adolfo, 1964

Since we've been looking at Adolfo all week, I thought you might like to see this image taken at the Arctic Circle in 1964.  The model is wearing a white silk faille cape with mink edged hood by Ben Reig.  Adolfo made the silver sequined hood and Viola did the silver sequined gloves.  The composition of this photo, taken by John Cowan is superb in every way, don't you think?

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Adolfo's Early Clothing

Earlier this week, we looked at Adolfo's hats.  When Adolfo opened his exclusive millinery shop in 1962, he began showing simple garments of his own design to offset his hats.  In 1966, as the popularity of hats dwindled, Adolfo made the decision to begin designing clothing in earnest.  As a milliner, he had developed an exclusive clientele of socialites.  These women formed his custom client base as he moved into designing fashion. 
 
1966 gold beaded mini dress, from the collection of the Met Museum
Women such as Gloria Vanderbilt, Babe Paley, CZ Guest, Jackie Onassis and Nancy Reagan drove his business.  Adolfo would show the collection to these women privately and make their garments to order. 

1967, from the collection of The V&A Museum
He stayed away from designing the popular sportswear of the time and instead focused on specialty items that reflected the social status of his exclusive clientele.  The evening ensemble above was made from an antique crazy quilt.
Late 60s vest and hot pants made from a crochet afghan, available at Frockology
Many of his pieces from the late 60s were quite "costume-y"  He was quoted as saying that his clothing was for a woman's fun and fantasy moods.  "Ladies want fun and games," he said in 1969.  He was satisfying their wants with maxi coats made from antique Spanish tapestry bedspreads and maxi skirts made from panels cut from checkered tablecloths and sheer gauze curtains.

1968, crochet mini dress, from the collection of the Met Museum
Adolfo showed this crochet mini dress in 1968. Jackie Onassis called him and ordered it custom made in 14 different colors.

1970, from the collection of RISD
Adolfo would use ideas from ethnic and native costumes that he observed when on vacation.  In Portugal, he saw women wearing embroidered shawls with long fringe.  The dress above shows the result of that inspiration.  After visiting Sardinia, he made a leather evening vest that laced in the front, to be worn with a voluminous satin full length skirt.  The vest was meant to be worn with nothing underneath, not even a bra.

Adolfo won a second Coty Award for his clothing  in 1969.

In one short year, starting in 1970, Adolfo's designs will make a radical change from the outrageous flights of fancy to a more classic and subdued esthetic.  We'll look at those garments next time


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