Teal Traina Suit - 1966

Here's another good example of a fashion trying to bridge the gap between classic clients and the newer Mod looks for the younger generation in 1966.  Venerable old New England department store Jordan Marsh placed this full page ad in Harper's Bazaar.  The dinner suit by Teal Traina is made from a fabulous brocade with a large scale pattern and has a shorter skirt length to appeal to the younger woman.  The choice of the dark tights, gloves and helmet hat are trying to appeal to the Teal Traina and Jordan Marsh client of the past.  What you end up with is a muddled mess.  For this to work, the model should be wearing silver sparkle hosiery, no hat, no gloves and big hair.  It's too bad, as that suit is GORGEOUS!!!!!  Suit sold for $250 in 1966 (about $1836 in today's dollar.)

Photo from a full page ad for Jordan Marsh appearing in Harper's Bazaar, 1966.  No credit given.

Monte-Sano and Pruzan Suit, 1966

Monte-Sano and Pruzan was a high-end maker of tailored suits and coats based in New York.  For the Fall of 1966, they embrace the Mod era with a marvelous wool check enhanced with gold lurex threads for sparkle.  The knee-grazing length of the skirt would still appeal to the company's classic clients by being just mini enough, as would the appearance of the gloves in the photo.  Remember though, most women had abandoned wearing gloves by this time.  There is no notation of who made the shoes, but aren't they wonderful?

Photo by John Engstead for I. Magnin, appeared in Harper's Bazaaar,1966

Jo Copeland Suit - 1943

After being in a box for the last 6 months, I finally unearthed my scanner and I have all my vintage fashion magazines out of storage.  Yay!

How I wish this image were in color, but Harper's Bazaar and all magazines were judicious with full color pages at this time, especially during the war years.  This fabulous suit is by Jo Copeland for Patullo.  The jacket is a blue, white and yellow check, the skirt is navy blue and the blouse is yellow rayon crepe. I really like that buckle at the waist.

The model?  None other than Lauren Bacall.

Photo by George Hoyningen-Huene for Harper's Bazaar, 1943.

Zelinka Matlick Suit Two Ways, 1956

Zelinka Matlick was one of America's best suit and coat manufacturers based on New York's Seventh Avenue.  Back in the day, every woman had a serviceable suit in her wardrobe to wear whenever it was called for....travel, a day in the city, a meeting with a professional, and so forth.  Women would purchase a basic suit and wear it for years. 

This suit from 1956 is even more versatile because it has a sweet little cape that can be worn or not for two different looks.  And the best part?  The cape is lined in polka dots!  Swoon!  This Zelinka Matlick suit sold for $110 in 1956 (about $929 in today's dollar.)

Weekend Eye Candy: Chanel Suit, 1965

Stunning Chanel evening suit from 1965.  White silk cloque is used to great effect here.  Note how the asymmetric closure of the white satin blouse lines up with the wrap front of the skirt.  My favorite thing, though, is the huge pearl cross which gives this all white ensemble just the edge it needs.

Ben Zuckerman Suit, 1954

My life is feeling rather out of control lately.  If you follow Couture Allure on Facebook, you know I've been hard at work on a kitchen remodel which seems to have taken over the entire house and has required most of my concentration and energy of late.  When circumstances make you feel a bit bashed about, nothing says "I am in control," or "I can do anything," more than a vintage suit.  Take this example from 1954 by Ben Zuckerman, master New York coat and suit maker.  Doesn't she appear capable of handling any of life's slings and arrows?  You bet.  Crimson tweed suit worn with a bright red silk scarf tucked into the neckline.  Sold in 1954 for $200 (about $1,720 in today's dollar.)

Want to see more by Ben Zuckerman?  Go take a look at Louise's blog, Vintage Ben Zuckerman.

Photo by Derujinsky.

Dan Millstein Suit - 1954

Dan Millstein, Inc. was a high end suit and coat manufacturer in New York which first became successful during WWII when the company made civil service and civilian uniforms for the US government. After the war, Mr. Millstein was one of the first manufacturers to visit Paris, where he began to work with Christian Dior and Pierre Cardin. He would purchase items from these designers, bring them back to New York, and make copies for the American market with the designers' approval. Later, he would attend the shows with the buyers from Lord & Taylor, who would advise him as to which garments to buy to make copies for their stores.

During the 50s and early 60s, Millstein (and others) would pay a cover charge of several thousand dollars to attend the couture showings in Paris with the understanding that he would purchase several of the samples. His designers would sit in the front row making sketches of the garments as they came down the runway. Calvin Klein got his start in the business by sketching for Dan Millstein.

The above ad for Miron brand wool from 1954 shows a Dan Millstein suit in wool tweed accented with black velvet at the collar and pockets.  The black velvet hat is by Mr. John. 

Weekend Eye Candy - Christian Dior Suit, 1950

Who needs a handbag when you've got pockets like these?  Christian Dior gray wool suit, Fall 1950.

White Wool by Christian Dior - 1955

For Fall 1955, Christian Dior showed this gorgeous suit in white wool.  The fitted skirt and bolero jacket are topped by a little swing coat.  He pairs the suit with a black satin top, black gloves and sparkling jewelery.  I love the idea of wearing a large brooch at the hip.  What about you?

Larry Aldrich Cocktail Suit - 1949

The cocktail suit - another fashion staple from the past that has disappeared from modern life.  This beauty by Larry Aldrich, from the spring of 1949, has a long slender skirt that hits right above the ankle.  It is fashioned from jacquard twill that has a subtle gleam to it.  A dramatic hat is just the right accessory, don't you think?  Larry Aldrich suit sold for $70 in 1949 (about $677 in today's dollar.)

Jane Derby Suit - 1959

Oh, little suit from 1959, how do I love thee?  Let me count the ways.

1.  Your classic houndstooth check pattern in brown, black and white can be worn anywhere.
2.  The self fringed edges at the jacket opening, neckline and sleeve cuffs add just the right amount of whimsy.
3.  You're a dress, not a top and skirt.  No constant tucking throughout the day.
4.  Big buttons and a brown leather belt add interest and break up the checked pattern.
5.  How could one not love an outfit designed by Jane Derby, designer of high-end ready-to-wear.  The quality of construction is surely superb!

Let us also pay homage to the large leather travel bag by Mark Cross.  I'd carry it as a tote today.....everywhere.

The Perfect Suit, 1953

Perfect from head to toe.  Note how she lets her suit be the star by using a smaller handbag and hat.  Look how the buttons elongate the figure from the waist to the hem of the skirt.  And I'll bet there are hidden hooks or buttons to close that collar if you want to.  Note the perfect eyebrows and simple makeup.  And don't forget  your gloves.  To get the look today, use animal printed fabric or faux fur please.  Suit by Raphael, 1953.