Coco Chanel's Personal Wardrobe Auction in 1978

On December 2, 1978, Christie's in London auctioned the personal wardrobe of Coco Chanel which had been bequeathed to Lilian Grumbach (center above) upon Chanel's death in 1971.  At the time, auctioning of "used clothing" or "personal wardrobes" was not the norm, in fact far from it.  There was a lot of speculation prior to the auction about who would want to buy the "out-of-date" clothing and jewelry from an auction house that normally specialized in fine art and antiques.  The House of Chanel itself was floundering in the late 70s and would not become a sensation again until 1983, when Karl Lagerfeld was hired.

Lilian Grumbach was press representative and closest personal associate to Chanel during the last 14 years of her life.  She was also heir to Chanel's personal effects.  The auction consisted of about 40 suits and dresses, either worn personally by Chanel herself or designed by her and kept as part of her personal collection.  There were also 44 pieces of jewelry and 36 other accessories (presumably handbags and such.) 

The auction was attended by museums, department stores, private collectors and women who were wise enough to realize the value of a piece of couture designed by Chanel.  A beige tweed suit with bright pink silk braid brought the highest price of the evening, about $4,800 (about $17,200 today.)  The total proceeds for the evening were $138,000 (about $494,000 today.)

Think about that.  Less than $500,000 for 120 items owned and designed by Coco Chanel herself.  If the same auction were held today, I am sure there would have been single items that sold for that price.  What a difference 35 years makes!

This link will take you to a French news report about the auction on Youtube.  In it, you can see some of the clothing and jewelry that was auctioned being worn by models.  You'll also see some of the bidders.  Enjoy!

Orange was a Hot Color in the 1930s

I listed this gorgeous 1930s burnt orange velvet bias cut velvet dress for sale on my website yesterday.  The color is so striking and unusual compared to most 1930s velvet dresses I find in black, navy and burgundy, that it piqued my curiosity.  That sent me on another research adventure.

Color fashion photography was not common at this time, so we have to rely on artist's renderings to see clothing in color.  But some fabric manufacturers did go to the expense of having color photographs done of fabric swatches so women could see the fabrics and colors that would be popular that year.  These are both from the fall of 1935.

And here are the fabrics that Mme. Chanel was using for her fall line in 1935. 

Here are velvets from 1934.  Notice the stand-out color in each?  Orange.  Orange shows up in fabric swatches from about 1934 through 1939.  This tells me the velvet dress I showed you above was the height of fashion in the mid-to-late 1930s.

Below are some artist renderings of orange used in fashion in the 1930s.

Dress by Jodelle, 1935.

Suit by Madeleine de Rauch, 1938

Black hat with orange bird of paradise feather by Chanel, 1935.

Evening gowns by Vionnet, 1935.

Chanel Dress, 1957

Chanel Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 1957.

Weekend Eye Candy: Chanel Suit, 1965

Stunning Chanel evening suit from 1965.  White silk cloque is used to great effect here.  Note how the asymmetric closure of the white satin blouse lines up with the wrap front of the skirt.  My favorite thing, though, is the huge pearl cross which gives this all white ensemble just the edge it needs.

Chanel Couture, 1932

Chanel worked a lot with velvet for her Fall, 1932 couture line.  Here are just a few examples.  Which is your favorite?

Above: Bias cut red velvet evening gown with matching gloves and scarf.

 Cherry red velvet evening coat trimmed in black fox fur.

 Ribbed red velvet coat lined in printed jersey.  Same jersey used for the dress.

 Black velvet evening gown adorned with black tulle.

Plaid velvet bias cut suit, trimmed in fur.

Chanel 1993 - 94

I've started to add magazines from the 80s and 90s to my collection, as fashions from those decades are now considered vintage.  I was browsing through the magazine rack at a thrift store the other day and came across one from October of 1993 and I promptly brought it home to share with you. I thought you might enjoy a look at a few pieces from Chanel for Fall 1993 and Spring 1994.

The micro-mini skirt was back in a big way in the fall of 1993.  Karl Lagerfeld and Yves St. Laurent led the way by featuring the new super short length on their runways.  Here is one example from Chanel Haute Couture, worn with black opaque tights.  I can't tell if those are socks or boot tops in the same tweed.

Love this.  Simply love this.  Chanel Haute Couture wool tweed bra top, guantlets and full length skirt, all embroidered in gold.  The wide belt makes it just right.

Another view of the same ensemble gives you a better view of the embroidery on the skirt.

For Resort 1994, Lagerfeld went to the ankle with the hem on this silk dress covered with Chanel graffiti.

And in a preview of Spring 1994 Haute Couture, a micro mini tweed dress worn with a jacket of the same length.  The flared godets at the jacket hem match the slight flare of the jacket sleeve.  The ensemble is worn with black opaque tights.

Friday Fur - Chanel, 1934

Leave it to Coco.  Here she takes a simple brown wool coat and turns it into a face framing beauty with a huge sable fur collar and matching trim at the sleeve cuffs.  Even the little hat is sable.  Photo from 1934.  By the way, if you've been looking for a sable hat, we've got one for sale at Couture Allure.  Check it out!

Paris Coats and Suits - 1933

Chanel camel striped velvet suit worn with a hat and blouse in sky blue linen embroidered with black.

 Lucien Lelong red angora/wool coat with silver fox collar.

 Marcel Rochas pink with black check wool suit.

 Bernard et Cie navy wool crepe coat with white embroidered scarf.

Martial et Armand suit in beige, yellow and brown crepe.

Which is your favorite?

Vintage Couture Evening Gowns - 1934

Want to see some couture evening gowns from 1934?  I thought so.  Which is your favorite?

Maggy Rouff purple and gold silk gown worn with a large purple velvet scarf.

Chanel gold lamé evening gown.  The bodice is embroidered with gold metallic threads.

Callot Soeurs silk faille gown in dove gray with pink pleated frills at the back.

Jacques Heim black silk satin mermaid hem gown worn with a white fox fur stole.

Marcel Rochas black silk stripe gown with ruffles down the sides.  The gown is adorned with a bird made of black feathers that has a diamante beak.