Arbus Fashion Photograph - 1949

This photograph captured my attention this morning.  It is from a full page ad for Enka Rayon from 1949.  The striped rayon dress is by Harvey Berin.  But it's the composition of the photo that I like.  The model is posed far off to the side and the dress that is being featured is almost an afterthought.  The model looks askance at a piece of sculpture in the American Museum of Natural History.

The photograph was taken by Arbus; not Diane but her husband, Allan.  Diane would have been the art director for the shot, though, and her genius is apparent even though she hated doing fashion work.  Pose a model in a purple striped dress against a busy painted wall?  Yes, please!

Photo by Allan Arbus is from a full page ad for Enka Rayon from Mademoiselle Magazine, 1949.

Harvey Berin for Bergdorf Goodman, 1956

Harvey Berin is one of my favorite vintage labels. This stunning dress was sold by Bergdorf Goodman and featured in a full page ad in December of 1956. 

"Out of the Blue by Harvey Berin $175
As fragile-looking as a snowflake drifting through the night. Our short evening dress of imported white French point d'esprit appliqued with pale blue French silk Chantilly lace embroidered with rhinestones. Heavenly dressing after dark for sizes 8 to 16. Ready-to-Wear Evening Gowns, Fourth Floor."

Point d'esprit is white lace netting with little polka dots woven into it.  The blue Chantilly lace appliques were individually cut and appliqued onto the white point d'esprit base and the whole thing sparkles with rhinestones.  Maybe someday I'll see this dress in person.  For now, I have to dream about it.

$175 in 1956 is equal to about $1,502 in today's dollar!

Photo by Sharland for Bergdorf Goodman full page ad appearing in Harper's Bazaar, 1956.

Harvey Berin Dress - 1956

May I just say, everything about this dress from 1956 is perfection, pure and simple.  The Harvey Berin company was better known for their evening wear, but designer Karen Stark also fashioned some outstanding daytime dresses and suits, as you can see.

-  Look at that black and white dotty fabric (likely silk) that has an almost Op Art look to it 10 years too early.
-  Look at the black bands at the waist.  Each has a bow, but they are on opposite sides.
-  Look at that pleated full skirt.  The photographer has captured its movement on film.
-  And LOOK at the matching umbrella!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you love it as much as I do?

A Touch of Spring

I love pretty floral prints.  The dress and jacket ensemble shown here is by Harvey Berin and dates to 1961.  "Verdant leaf-green on white" is how the print is described.  Under the jacket, the sleeveless sheath can stand on it's own.  And if you're bold enough, top it off with a pouf of white blossoms and green leaves via the Sally Victor hat.  Nothing says Spring like a showy floral hat!

Harvey Berin Dress - 1955

Delicious, no?  This incredible dress was designed by Karen Stark for Harvey Berin.  The dress is pieced together from black lace and pin-tucked black silk chiffon.  It is lined in a light colored silk, probably pink or beige.  The work that went into this beauty is simply astounding!

Dresses for the Heat of Summer - 1956

Air conditioning was not mainstream in 1956.  Some public buildings offered it, but at home window units were expensive and uncommon.  Women tried to stay cool by wearing lightweight fabrics, although slips, bras and girdles were still de rigueur.  Today, summer dresses from 1956 that were made to beat the heat.

Pink and white checked cotton lawn is criss-crossed with insertion lace for a light airy effect.  Larry Aldrich.  Sold for $110 in 1956 (about $914 in today's dollar.)

Cotton voile in black with copper colored dots.  Oleg Cassini.  Sold for $70 in 1956 (about $582 in today's dollar.)

A sweet cotton poplin playsuit gets dressed up for town by wearing a co-ordinating floral skirt over it.  Both pieces by Pat Premo.  Sold for $40 in 1956 (about $332 in today's dollar.)

Semi-sheer cotton voile in a cool champagne color fashions a simple shirtwaist dress.  Vera Stewart.  Sold for $95 in 1956 (about $789 in today's dollar.)  Mr. John lace hat.

White pintucked cotton batiste with rows of insertion lace layered over pale yellow lining.  Harvey Berin.  Sold for $175 in 1956 (about $1454 in today's dollar.)

How do you dress to stay cool in summer?

Harvey Berin Dresses

Karen Stark and Harvey Berin, 1954

Harvey Berin dresses were prized for being extremely well made and yet only moderately expensive. The company was best known for it's evening gowns and cocktail dresses, although they produced daytime dresses and suits, as well. Mr. Berin began his career in fashion in 1921 when he was only 15 years old. He hired his sister-in-law, Karen Stark, to design the line in 1942. The pair won a Coty award in 1952. Harvey Berin's evening wear was worn by many First Ladies. Perhaps the most famous was Pat Nixon's yellow silk inaugural gown. The Harvey Berin company closed in 1970.

1954: Pale pink satin ball gown.

1956: Black silk taffeta cocktail dress with side drape.

1956: Black wool jersey bodice and satin skirt combined in a beauty of a cocktail dress.

1957: Pink satin peeks out behind black lace

1958: Silk satin bubble hem gown.

1969: Pat Nixon inaugural gown.

At Couture Allure, we just listed this stunning 1950s silk satin party dress by Harvey Berin. It's another great example of the genius of Karen Stark.