Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci, 1936
Lanvin-Castillo Dress - 1958
Bergdorf Goodman offered this copy of a Lanvin-Castillo design in their custom salon for Spring 1958. The dress was available in all white lace or white lace re-embroidered in gold or silver threads. Perfect for your New Year's celebration, no? Sold for $650 in 1958 (about $5,093 in today's dollar.)
Serbin Golfer - 1949
Oscar de la Renta Dress - 1967
Road Trip!
My staff will continue to list new items on the website while I'm away, but we'll only be shipping once a week from now through February 6.
For the blog? I'll be showing one fabulous dress per day for the next 6 weeks. There are some real drool-worthy beauties coming for you. Enjoy!
Weekend Eye Candy - Paul Poiret, 1929
Friday Fur - Lanvin, 1948
There are furs, and then there are furs. This full length silver fox fur coat by Jeanne Lanvin from 1948 is certain to cover even the most voluminous ballgown. Winter winds be damned!
Having an office Christmas party today? Remember, he won't look nearly as handsome after the punch wears off, dear. 
Tom Brigance Playsuit - 1955
Tom Brigance was a well known designer of American sportswear. He worked in London for Jaeger before coming to New York in 1939 as the in-house designer for Lord & Taylor. He was noted for his use of soft draping, unusual fabrics, and interesting prints. He was absent from the design world from 1942-47 while he served in the war. Upon his return, he once again designed for Lord & Taylor, until he announced his resignation in March of 1949 to join Charles Nudelman. He didn't stay long, however, as by 1951, Brigance was the exclusive designer at Frank Gallant. In the 1950s, 60s and 70s Brigance designed for several manufacturers including Sportsmaker, Gabar and Sinclair as well as under his own name. He retired in the late 1970s and died on October 14, 1990.
The cute playsuit shown above was designed under Brigance's own label in 1955. This is actually two pieces: a short play dress with matching bloomers made of Mooreville cotton plaid. This would have been worn on the beach, by the pool, or perhaps for boating. It was far too short to go into town in 1955! Note how the bottom two buttons of the dress are left daringly unbuttoned for the photo. The ad calls this a "Miniature dress." Sold for $25 in 1955 (about $211 in today's dollar.)
Guess the Date
Norman Norell Bubble Dress - 1957
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| Traina-Norell, 1957 |
I normally associate Norman Norell with the "ladies who lunch" crowd and his design esthetic in the 60s and 70s certainly fit that mold. But Norell was a master of stunning cocktail and evening dresses and his work in the 40s and 50s included some incredible, incredible designs. Here are a few more examples of his earlier work.
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| 1951 |
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| circa 1955 from the Met Museum Costume Collection |
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| 1949 |
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| circa 1950s from the Indianapolis Museum of Art costume collection |
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| 1949 |
Guess the Date, Guess the Designer
I won't make you guess that this is a dress. I have no idea where her arms are or where they are supposed to be. I have no idea if this is the true shape of the dress or if it has been "puffed" up with air or stuffing for the photo. Yes, it's a bit whacky, but can you guess the date? How about the designer? Answer tomorrow!
Where do you think her arms are supposed to go?
What We Were Wearing - Fall 1941
Here's a look at what women were wearing 70 years ago this month. America had just entered WWII after the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. While L-85 restrictions were not yet in force, fabric shortages and the needs of war did influence fashion. Hem lengths became shorter and there was less volume in silhouettes. American designers were beginning to lead the world in new fashion trends as the Paris couture lost contact with the rest of the world. Nylon and wool were needed for the war effort and Japanese silk was banned in the U.S., so a relatively new fabric known as rayon became the choice for most women's clothing.
Shorter hemlines are visible in dresses and skirts as well as jackets. Fancy decorative touches like ruffles, pleats and tucks are starting to disappear as they require more fabric.
Coats are also shorter and cut with less volume. Even double breasted styles will go away after the L-85 restrictions are put in place in 1943. Here you can see the beginnings of the padded shoulders that give a masculine appearance in support of the military.
Clothing becomes more utilitarian. Basic skirts and blouses are worn for everyday wear.
In contrast to the severe look of most clothing, hats become more ostentatious. High peaked hats are popular.....
....as are tilt hats that are worn forward over the brow.
Shoes become more utilitarian as well with thick sturdy heels.
Rubber will be needed for the war effort, so girdles made with Lastex start to appear. Lastex was made from latex. Stockings are now made of nylon instead of silk. Soon, they will become scarce due to nylon being used for parachutes for our soldiers.
Rubber will be needed for the war effort, so girdles made with Lastex start to appear. Lastex was made from latex. Stockings are now made of nylon instead of silk. Soon, they will become scarce due to nylon being used for parachutes for our soldiers.
How to Wear a Vintage Fur Stole
I recently received a question from Erin over at Fashion is Danger asking for advice on how to wear her vintage mink stoles. Erin wrote, "I have two (yes, two!) vintage mink stoles of the kind with the heads, feet and tails on them....I can't figure out HOW to wear them. Both have little bakelite chains of 3-4 links, ending in a cord-wrapped bead with a snap in it-- it seems like these are used to fasten the collars. They also "bite" each other on the tail, via a clip built into their mouths. Finally, on some of the feet (!) there are cord-wrapped beads with snaps. In short, there are a whole lotta ways to fasten the little critters, but no matter what I do, it ends up looking weird; I end up with a head or a foot or a tail in a bizarre position."
Erin the best way I can answer this is to just give you pictures to look at. All those clips and snaps are meant to give you versatility in how you wear your stole. Don't forget, you can wrap it more than once, you can just drape it over your arm or your shoulder, or you can clip it to your lapel, your belt, a pocket, your handbag or your collar. Keep experimenting!
No need to watch all 14 minutes of this video. In the first few, you'll see Barbara Stanwyck in "Ladies They Talk About" from 1933. Take a look at how she has the heads of her stole are clipped to the sleeves of her coat. Genius!
Erin the best way I can answer this is to just give you pictures to look at. All those clips and snaps are meant to give you versatility in how you wear your stole. Don't forget, you can wrap it more than once, you can just drape it over your arm or your shoulder, or you can clip it to your lapel, your belt, a pocket, your handbag or your collar. Keep experimenting!
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| Check out the little face on her hat! |
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| Two feet clipped together |
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| This is probably 5 pelts, but they are just draped nicely around the neck. |
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| Clip under the face attached to fur on the other end. |
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| Clipped to her belt then wrapped around the shoulders. |
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| Probably clipped to her collar on the side, then wrapped completely around and allowed to fall. |
No need to watch all 14 minutes of this video. In the first few, you'll see Barbara Stanwyck in "Ladies They Talk About" from 1933. Take a look at how she has the heads of her stole are clipped to the sleeves of her coat. Genius!
Jerry Parnis Dress - 1954
Jerry Parnis was Mollie Parnis' sister. While not as well known as Mollie, Jerry was just as talented. Her favorite fabric to work with was cotton, which she used for both day and evening dresses. This dress from 1954 is simply superb. What I love most about it is that unusual neckline treatment, one I've never seen before. The black and white cotton print is accented with bands of white cotton pique. Jerry takes the pique band down the front neckline, but stops short of the deep decolletage and weaves it straight across. This adds a peek-a-boo effect that I adore. By the way, Formite was the brand name for the interfacing used in the dress.
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